Back in the 90’s, Gili Trawangan was just a small dot on the backpacker trail east of Bali.

Accommodation was mostly limited to thatched huts on the northeast coast, with places like the old “Good Heart Bungalows” offering a basic bed and mandi bathroom for less than $5 a night.

A bamboo lean-to on the beach dispensed nasi goreng to hungry beachgoers and, at sunset, the local ladies would furtively dispense large bottles of Bintang beer from coolers filled with melted ice water hidden behind the huts.

These days, that scene is well and truly gone. Luxury villas with private swimming pools have elbowed out the old style “home-stays” and dreadlocks rub shoulders with designer bikinis on the beach.

The east and north coasts, having the best beaches on the island, were the first to be developed on Gili T and this is where you will find the biggest selection of accommodation, bars and eateries, particularly in the main area near the pier, known as Sentral.

Wander south of Sentral, however, past Kokomo Resort and “Sunset Point” and you will still find traces of the Gili T of old.

Here the sandy track winds along the beachfront and past large blocks of undeveloped land. Island old-timers still herd their goats, indifferent to the fact that their grazing land is now worth a small fortune.

Here you will find quirky little places tucked away between the trees and rickety shacks set up near the beach, reminiscent of the old Gili T.

This part of the coast is home to “The Exile” – a funky place that celebrates the nostalgia of the castaway beach scene.

The Exile can be reached by cidomo (horse cart) in about five minutes ride south of The Trawangan Resort. A large white sign on the roadside announces “The Exile” in bold letters, alongside an incongruous bicycle hanging from the tree.

The beach in front of The Exile is long and wide, and decorated with an eclectic collection of chairs and hand-made tables, and driftwood, shells and coral collected from the tides. Rustic groupings invite you to sit and relax a while, mesmerized by the gentle waves and the beautiful views across the ocean.

The reef and rocks come quite close to the shore here and this isn’t a perfect swimming area but a lone lady sits in the shallow water, obviously enjoying the luxury of having the entire beach to herself.

A few tourists sip cold beers at the bar as we order fresh juices and climb onto the wooden stools overlooking the beach. A herd of cows wander past. An old man in a woven coolie hat drives an old cart loaded with grass along the track, grinning as he passes.

The local staff working at the bar smile shyly and speak in halting English – they’re from the island, working for the first time in their lives, and are a world away from the “seen it all” guys in the main tourist strip.

Behind the bar, bungalows are set in a spacious garden that stretches back to the hill – the highest point on Gili T. Each bungalow has a thatched roof and boasts a different style; some are in typical Indonesian or Balinese designs, one is Sumatran, and a couple use the local Lumbung or “rice barn” style, with the bedroom upstairs and a shady area for lounging underneath.

Inside, the bungalows are simply furnished but comfortable and clean, with queen beds, mosquito nets and electric fans. A few boast air conditioning.

This basic accommodation evokes the 90’s philosophy, when it was enough to have a comfortable bed to sleep in and a clean place to shower after a day spent on the beach.

And it is the beach that is the focal point at The Exile.

A constant flow of customers arrive from Ombak Sunset, the Aston and hotels further around the west coast; heading to and from “Sentral”.

It can get hot walking along the beach in the endless summer of Gili T and the bar at The Exile lures the sweaty and thirsty to stop and have a cold drink or two, while enjoying the beach views and the cool atmosphere.

As the sun starts to sink over the volcano on Bali just across the ocean, people wander to this side of the island to watch the sunset. Slowly the tables and chairs on The Exile beachfront fill up with singles, couples and groups; chatting and drinking, gazing in awe and taking photographs of the glorious sunset.

Out in the shallows, the famous Exile swing attracts scores of people who wade out into the sea and climb onto the big wooden swing for sunset photos and selfies.

As the sky darkens, the staff take up seats behind an assortment of drums and percussion instruments and start to play. Soon the sound of drumming fills the air and the crowd swells as more and more people are attracted to the hypnotic beats.

Someone lights the bonfire and soon the flames are lighting up the beach. A beautiful girl steps from the crowd, whirling a Hula-hoop and twirling in time with the drums.

The drums throb into the night, the crowd moving to the primitive beat, drinks flow, strangers start talking to each other and another timeless day in paradise draws to a close for those exiled on Gili T.