Lombok is an island of stunning beaches and breath-taking coastlines, with many small islands sitting just off the shore (locally called “Gili”, which means “small island”).

Perhaps the most famous of these are the three Gilis that sit off the northwest coast of Lombok – Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. 

However, there are many more small islands off the coast all around Lombok that are not yet developed for tourism, particularly those Gilis off the southwest coast, which offer many opportunities for those looking for the true “castaway tropical island” experience.

It’s a brilliant sunny day and we are travelling down south, past Lembar Harbour (the main sea port for arrivals from Bali) to the region known as Sekotong. The landscape is stunningly beautiful, with rolling hills on the left and small rural villages sheltering in the green valleys. On the right, the ocean stretches out, sparkling blue in the sunshine.

With each corner you turn in the twisting coastal road, new vistas greet you. Arriving in Sekotong, at the township of Taun, we marvel at the still unspoilt vision of this beautiful bay that sweeps in a majestic arc of clean white sand and turquoise water.

Out in the bay, barely rising above the water, are three small Gilis – Gili Sudat, Gili Tangkong and Gili Nanggu.

The north of the bay juts out into a peninsula and it almost seems you could walk across to Gili Sudat at low tide. The central island, Gili Tangkong, is long and wide with a small hill in the centre and, lying just to the west, is the low rise of Gili Nanggu. Gili Nanggu is the furthermost island and the only one of the three that offers accommodation.

At present there’s only one small hotel – Gili Nanggu Cottages – on the island, with some simple bungalows on the beachfront, several more up-market rooms further around the beach, and a small restaurant. It’s a lovely place for a day trip, or a relaxing hide-away for a few days, if you don’t need fancy accommodation. 

It’s easy to reach Gili Nanggu from the mainland – just look for the car parking area in the centre of Taun village, which has a large sign advertising boat charters to the Gilis.

From here you can hire a local outrigger boat (prahu) to Gili Nanggu, or visit all three islands for a day trip; or even arrange to go further south, exploring the other islands off the southwest coast. All are within easy reach of each other and offer interesting opportunities for exploring.

The boat trip out to Gili Nanggu is lovely; a short thirty minute putter across calm waters, with just enough time to admire the sublime views in every direction.

The boat pulls up right on the shore, which is sheltered by small trees with seats and berugaq (or bales) dotted on the sand for shade and shelter. The sand is crystalline fine and soft, and so blindingly white that you really do need sunglasses on a sunny day!

Lapping at the sand, the water is clear aquamarine and you can see the white sand at the bottom; the shadows further out mark outcrops of coral.

In low season, there are rarely many visitors on the beach and it’s possible to feel almost alone one on this idyllic island. In high season, particularly July and August, Gili Nanggu is popular with tourists who appreciate the value of a Caribbean-type setting at budget prices.

One of the main reasons people come to Gili Nanggu is for the snorkelling. The small reef is just off shore in less than two metres of water, so snorkelling is easy even for beginners.

There are rarely any waves, so it’s a simple as donning a mask and snorkel, and floating above the coral and fish! Snorkelling gear is available on the island, from the hotel, at reasonable prices.

Although the reef has dramatically changed since I first snorkelled there in the early ‘nineties, mainly due to the effects of El Nino and rising water temperatures in such shallow waters, there is still an abundance of colourful fish.

They are so accustomed to people swimming with them, they actually come right up and brush against your body as you are snorkelling. This is one place in Lombok where you have the opportunity to observe tropical fish face to face!

Gili Nanggu is a beautiful island to visit and the snorkelling opportunities are still good, as is the swimming in the sandy areas away from the reef.  Measuring only 12.5 hectares, you can easily walk around the whole island in an hour, and the north and west coasts are usually deserted. 

The restaurant at the hotel is fine for meals and snacks, and they even have a small turtle hatchery within the grounds where rescued baby turtles are rehabilitated before being released back into the ocean.

For the best experience, go during the week as it can get busy on weekends and public holidays… and you really do want this island escape all to yourself!