Most Indonesian people believe that old shrines and tombs hold special mystical powers, and this is particularly true if the shrine or tomb is the resting place of an influential public figure, such as a famous scholar.

In Lombok, Makam Loang Baloq is one of the most famous tombs on the island and considered sacred by the local Sasak people.

If you are driving south of Ampenan on the main road to the airport (Jalan Lingkar Selatan Tanjung Karang), you will always see tourist buses and cars lining the road outside of Loang Baloq.

The tombs are busy at any time of the year and especially packed with pilgrims at Idul Fitri, Lebaran Topat and other religious public holidays throughout the year.

Entering the gates of the compound, the entire area is dominated by the massive Banyan Tree (pohon beringin), believed to be hundreds of years old. Its branches tower high into the sky and its aerial roots hang in a thick veil around the base.

Loang Baloq is actually the site of three tombs, the most important of which is the tomb of Maulana Sheikh Gaus Abdurrazak, more commonly known as Sayyid Tohri.

Shaykh Gaus Abdurrazak is believed to be a 13th Century scholar and preacher of Islam, who travelled to Indonesia from Baghdad, Iraq to spread the word of Islam.

He first arrived in Palembang, Sumatra and then sailed to Lombok, landing on the coast at Ampenan. He lived on Lombok until his death, giving advice based on Islamic teachings to residents and surrounding communities and was greatly revered by the people for his wisdom.

His tomb is actually located inside the Banyan Tree, in a rectangular hollow like a cave formed by the roots. The tomb is entered at the rear of the tree through a special door; alongside the entrance is a small mosque for praying and an area with special ‘sacred water’ prepared for the use of pilgrims. Visitors come here to pray and to scatter water and flowers on the grave in remembrance of the holy man.

The other two important tombs at Loang Baloq belong to a man known as ‘Datuk Laut’ and an unknown child, known only as ‘Anak Yatim” (orphan). No one quite knows why these two are buried here together with the cleric but their tombs are also considered sacred.

The tomb of the orphan lies at the base of the Banyan Tree, tucked into the roots; while the tomb of Datuk Laut is housed in a small building nearby, his grave surrounded by black tiles.

Loang Baloq is a working cemetery (‘makam’) and you will also see old graves and the twisted Frangipani trees common to Moslem graveyards on the land surrounding the complex.

Loang Baloq attracts pilgrims from throughout Indonesia who come to pray at the tombs. For the local Sasak people, it is an important historical site where they come to pray and to remember the holy people buried here. It is also a popular place for traditional rituals, especially the ritual of the first haircut of a toddler called ‘ngurisan’ in the Sasak language.

One special tradition upheld by those who come to pray here and ask for special wishes such as the cure of illness, finding a partner, success in business, etc., is to make a knot in the hanging roots of the Banyan tree.

In the past the custom involved tying a ribbon or piece of cloth to the roots but, as people started using strips of plastic, the custodians of the tomb have enforced the rule that plastic cannot be used and visitors can instead tie a knot in the roots.

After praying for the special favour, pilgrims make a knot in the roots and, when the prayer is answered and the wish granted, return to the site to untie the knot and offer thanks in a tradition called ‘Saur Sesangi’ meaning to ‘pay the promise’.

After praying and spending time at the tomb, many visitors then go to “Taman Loang Baloq”, the park directly across the road built by the government so that people could relax and enjoy picnics when visiting the tombs.

The park has a small man-made lake (albeit terribly polluted with rubbish) and pavillions built out over the water. There are stalls selling drinks and snacks, and peddle boats that can be hired to cruise on the lake.

Paths lead from the lake down to the beachfront at Tanjung Karang – a local beach popular with visitors and courting couples, with beautiful views at sunset.